The Chathams Trip – Oceanic Avid

 

Well folks - I’m back – from the Chathams and in print. Despite my heinous ragging of JBR in the last Avid article, he is still polite to me, and we have just returned from a superb trip to the Chathams, courtesy of much planning and determination, help from friends, and little luck and a hint of courage. The ability to sit still for many hours is also highly desirable.

 

We landed at Feilding at 1630 on Tuesday 13 March and were welcomed by a group of friends and family, as well as a reporter from the Dominion Post.  Within a couple of minutes a somewhat apologetic John Waugh had told me that RAANZ wanted copy fast, so here goes….

 

Dreaming

The credit for dreaming up the trip goes entirely to John Bolton-Riley, who, having been across the Tasman several times, decided two years ago that the Chathams looked a distinct possibility, and he wanted to visit them anyway. Being the first microlight across would be a bonus to add to the trip.  Soon afterwards, I joined the Manawatu Club, and about October last year, (I think) was sitting around on the decking in front of the club one Sunday and the topic came up. Before much time had passed, I’d said “yes – I’m in” and the die was set. The original intention was to look for three or four machines with similar performance, and go out as a group. For a variety of reasons, it finished up as JBR and me, with a support group of Bruce and Betty Brownlee, Jane Bolton-Riley, and Bill Penman to go in Bruce’s Cessna 421 Golden Eagle.

 

Planning

Once the idea set root, JBR and I each began planning various details of the trip, but not in any closely co-ordinated fashion. John had the advantage of having prior experience, and I had some knowledge of that, a variety of biographical references from previous long flights, and my own ideas. Bill Penman was a continual source of ideas and advice as were others in the club.

John contacted HeliFlight who kindly loaned us survival suits, and I arranged the two man life raft from Mainair at Wellington Airport. That could not be collected until the last minute, because of the hireage time frame.

 

Equipment

 

Survival suits from Helipro 

Boating Polyprops (ie longjohns)

Personal EPIRBS (Thanks Phil Budding for the loan of yours.)

Flares large parachute type and personal miniflares

Mirror on a lanyard

Dye pack

Torch (buoyant, with lanyard)

2 man life raft

ELT in plane

Food, water with big flare pack (tied to life raft)

Backup GPS

Clearfile folder with photocopies of maps, VTC sections, airfield plate from AIP4, map of the Chathams A4 size

Printout of the track, with GPS co-ords and reporting points (Thanks to Bill Penman)

40 Lit extra fuel

Helmet for head protection in the event of ditching

Gloves

Personal gear – clothes, toiletries etc.

½” x 18” steel stakes, 3/8” tiedown rope and cockpit cover (not needed thanks to Craig)

I wasn’t really worried, just tired (taken after we got back)

 

 

 

 

 

The Journey begins…

 

We had set the depart day as Good Friday, with the back up being that we could all fit into Bruces’ 412 if the weather was too bad for the microlights. We planned to get to the Chathams one way or the other. I finished school at 1:30 on the Thursday and shot into Wellington airport to collect the life raft,  back home to say goodbye to my family, and then off to Feilding to stay overnight at John and Jane’s ready for an early start. Good idea, lousy timing. I knew I’d hit the Easter traffic, and have a slow trip. I didn’t count on 5 hours to get to Feilding (usually 2). I finally arrived at 9:30 and then went down to the hangar to prep the plane for the morning. Roger Dixon had kindly got fuel ready for me so all I had to do was top up the main tanks and connect the auxiliary tanks into the sump. I stowed various bags, tools, pickets etc and drove back to Johns about 10:30 pm. We chatted for a while then hit the hay, ready for a 5:30 start.

 

“Oh-Dark-Thirty”, and ready to fire up.

We were both up at 5, and checked the weather, then filed a flight plan via IFIS before heading down to the field, a little later than planned. Bill Penman had got there at 5:20, and not finding us, promptly curled up in his car and went to sleep!  He was quickly back on task and we dragged the planes out, did some last minute rearranging and climbed into the survival suits. No chance of a “mid flight tinkle” with those, so the morning food and drink had been minimal!

 

Finally, about 6:15 and with the first light showing, we fired up and taxied out to 28. Its’ quite a blast to make a radio call that finishes“…departing the circuit for the Chatham Islands”. A bit sobering too.

Climbing, just off the coast at 0819

 

 Our two machines turned East and headed off toward the gorge. The Sky Arrow was quite a bit faster than the Avid, so John was holding back on the power to let me keep up. I still lost him through the Gorge, so he came around and followed me. We spent 30 min or so bouncing around at about 1500-2000 feet, getting to the coast, to be greeted by veils of rain to the southeast and clear but overcast to the north. I had change frequencies to talk to Ohakea, and spent a few minutes circling until JBR came back on 125.1 and we both changed to 123.45, as Ohakea was out of range. Then followed a long

slow climb up to 8500’, steering for gaps and around the edge of some serious looking cloud.

 

JHW revealed a very slow climb, confirming the

prop was set a bit coarse. I’d known about that, but hadn’t reset it in the weeks previous, as I didn’t have the time to then perform thorough checks prior to heading over serious sea. John, unknown to me, had an ongoing battle with icing as he was running at reduced power so as not to leave me behind, and the Sky Arrow has no carb heat. He had to blast around at full power every now and then to keep the

Big cloud ahead, 7900’, 0846. We went through the gap about 15 min later

noise smooth. We eventually arrived at 9000’ and spent the next few hours marveling at the view, and continually adjusting course and altitude.maintain VFR through the canyons, overhangs and veils of cloud. We were never bored, and often discussed the best course some 20 miles ahead. As we neared Chatham Island we had to drop down to 7000, then 5000, and finally 3500 to get under the clouds, and ended up in very turbulent air with some rain and moderate wind. Our first sight of the Chathams was the northern coast, and we tracked round past Port Hutt, looking to pass Waitangi and head down to the sunny southern half of the island. I called John and asked had he noticed our ground speed (about 36 kts) – yes he had – so we headed to the airfield in increasing murk, wind and rain. We heard the 421 on IFR long finals, 8 miles out, and so decided to orbit until it had landed. We hung around over the lagoon at about 1000’, the Sky Arrow in the lead, and me peering through the murk trying not to loose sight of him.

Landfall, 30kts and rain….

 

to John kindly suggested I land first. I had been talking to the people on the ground about where to land, as the wind was about 25kts and 90 deg to the sealed runway (05/23). JHW has grass tyres which make it really skitterish on seal, let alone in a crosswind. I began the first of two approaches, very conscious of the need not to screw up and bend my plane – partly from a personal viewpoint, but also because I did not want any bad press for microlights. Bill was on the radio offering advice, and I had the apron as my aiming point, with the taxiway side grass beyond.  The first approach was too fast, off line and untidy, so I went/lurched around for another go. (I’m never too proud to go around – it’s the cheaper option and you learn more too.)

Safe in the hangar, a few minutes after we landed

 

The second approach was much better, still a bit

lurchy but on line and I touched down, the first microlight to land on the Chathams, after 4.9 hrs in the air. I was able to taxi unassisted to the Chathams Air hangar, while behind me John landed easily in the Sky Arrow.

 

Thank you Craig

A brief but important note here – Craig Emeny, owner and operator of Chatham Air (Convair and C206) most kindly offered the use of his hangar so we would not have to tie down outside, and supplied us with fuel at a generously low rate (for the Chathams) of only $2 per litre. When we came to leave he would not hear of taking payment for the hangarage so kindly supplied, just quietly smiling and saying that we are all in the same game, and it was a pleasure to help. What a guy.

(He was the gliding instructor who sent me solo in a Rhonlerche and Blanik at German Hill in 1979). New Zealand aviation has many like Craig and we are the richer for it.

 

Now was a time for handshakes, congratulations and general stretching of limbs. JBR was in party mode almost right away, but I found myself feeling increasingly peaky and rapidly losing interest in all but sleep. I had not felt at all tired when flying, and while I was working hard and concentrating during the last 30 min or so, I hadn’t felt stressed as such, but must have been. Joan, our hostess from the hotel, had arrived with a magnificent picnic lunch, the first of many extra efforts she made on our behalf. I opted out, and once in the van, fell asleep until we reached the hotel, where I went straight o bed, and emerged a couple of hours later, refreshed and ready to explore.

First evening celebration - John realising that we now have to fly back again!

 

The others of the party were in the bar, chatting and playing pool, and after a couple of games, Bill and I went out to get some photos. The (only) hotel is right on the waterfront at Waitangi, with a temptingly landable beach just 10 m away – we didn’t as wind and tide were unco-operative. There were a number of beached fishing boats, and numerous bits of old rusty machinery to explore. It was immediately obvious that whatever might happen on these islands, the sea dictates terms and will always be the ultimate winner. After some more exploring, it was time for dinner, drinks and watching some football in the TV room. A fishing trip had been organized by the owner of the hotel, who had penciled in two boats, one on each side of the island. We were to take the side with the smaller sea running.  I hit the hay early that first night, as I’d a few phone calls to make (ordinary STD dialing), and was still quite tired.

 

 

 

I arose on Saturday bright and keen, the first to the buffet breakfast at 0700. By 0800 all six of us, plus another “Joan lunch” were in the hotel van and headed for Owenga, a small fishing village on the south west corner of the island. There we found Glen – about 30 years old and owner of a perpetual smile and easy nature, his wife and a teenage deckhand. The boat was all aluminium with a 390 hp diesel, drum net and simple deckhouse with GPS and sonar.

As we motored out into Hanson Bay, Bill and I noticed that there was only one rod. ?????

After about 20 min we stopped, anchored and Glen and his deckhand got to work setting up 6mm ropes for fishing. A chunk of metal for a weight, and two 40cm 60 kg traces with big hooks, about a metre up from the bottom. Any doubts were quickly dispelled as we were in only 12 m of water, and for the next hour were hauling in blue cod until our arms began to tire. Bait the hooks, drop over the side, feel the weight hit bottom, feel a couple of nibbles, jerk and haul in unhook the cod and repeat. We actually lost track of who had caught how many.

We were stoked – great fishing and seventy 40-50 cm cod soon filled two fish crates. 

 

Our fishing boat – aluminium, 390HP, 6 Tonnes, 13 kts.

The Glen said it was time to head to the shoal for grouper (hapuka). This time we were really stunned by the fishing. I was first to cast, and in 25m of water soon felt the weight hit bottom. Thump, thump – two hits and a bit of a fight. I’d certainly hooked something and so began to haul in. It was hard work, but soon two big hapuka were on the deck and proudly held up to photograph. Behind me others had strikes and were already hauling in. We just kept going. Glen repositioned the boat a couple of times so we could drift across the shoal. Soon we had about 50 grouper. We had tired arms, quite a few blisters and a few hook jags as personal souvenirs of the best days’ fishing any of us had ever seen. And don’t think this is just a fishing story – we have the photos to back it up :-)

 

The trip back took us past the lagoon entrance, which had some impressive surf breaking over a bar, and then past the wreck of a 50m fishing vessel that hadn’t quite made it back some years previously. Back at the wharf, Glen and the others set about cleaning and filleting the catch, while our group went off the see the statue of Tommy Solomon, “the last of the Moriori”, who died in 1933.  Like all legends it has some basis in fact, but the real story is more interesting and complex, as we were to discover the following day.

 A couple of hours later we arrived back at the hotel, complete with a fish crate full of cod and grouper fillets, and grouper steaks – about 25-30 kg of  beautiful fresh fish (retail $20 per kg we thought). The manager made space in the freezer. As I write this, my share is still (I hope) in someone’s freezer in Feilding! I’ll find out on Sunday.

 

We went out to try and find the marae, but succeeded in circumnavigating Lake Huro, over a road that deteriorated into a farm track before improving back to a dirt lane. The really hilarious part was passing a couple of farm houses. Betty and Jane were convinced we were trespassing and would surely be chased by an irate landowner. Betty hid below seat level, Jane tried to and the guys couldn’t give a damn, and roared with laughter.

 

When we returned to the hotel, I found a message from Lea Clough, the local TV1 “stringer”, and general purpose reporter. He arranged to pick me up for an interview (JBR wanted to watch the rugby) and we headed off to the hangar, but found it locked and nobody there to help. The next stop was Port Hutt, a small fishing village on the northwest corner of the island. There we met Kevan Clarke who is doing some pioneering work in the exporting of live cod, a complex and delicate task. Lea and I went out on his boat as he did the last round for the day of the traps – like lobster pots, but larger, and with a different mouth.

 

Lea dropped me back at the pub in time for the evening meal and another pleasant few hours passed among friends. Jane and Betty were quite smug about the arrangements for Sunday, and would not tell us what had been planned, but popular (male) opinion had it that Bruce and John would have their wallets surgically lightened in some manner or other.

 

After a sound sleep we awoke to a lovely, but windy Sunday. First stop was the Moriori marae, (with proper directions!)  a new $4million plus structure atop a hill overlooking Lake Huro. Our hostess, Shirley was a mine of information and we spent a pleasant few hours learning something of the history of this courageous and historically maligned people. The achievement of the current generation (now well intermingled with other races) is all the more impressive when you realize that the structure, and two adjoining modern houses were paid for entirely from the money generated by the locals through fishing and farming, not from government handouts. There are quite a few organisations in NZ who could learn from their example.

 

Next we departed on the girls’ secret mission – a 5 min drive took us to the local “artist in residence”, a self taught lady who works in pastel and her work is characterized by strong colours, stylized lines and curves, based around the local wildlife. John and Bruce talked pig hunting with her husband, and Bill and I listened to her describing the art and its development with the girls.

 

(see part two for the rest of the story)(ms)